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Contents
Introduction 1
Chapter 1
Costume Design: What It Is and What It Does 7
EarlyTheatrical Costuming 8
The Visual Impact 16
What is a Costume? 18
The Psychology of Clothing 18
The Meaning of Clothes 25
What the Costume May Reveal 26
Sex 26
Age 26
Occupation 26
Social Status 27
Geographic Area 28
Season and Weather 29
Time of Day and Occasion 29
Activity 29
Historical Period 30
Psychological Factors 30
Interpreting the Script and Enhancing the Characterization 32
Script Inlluence on the Character Costume 34
Symbolizingthe Role 35
Subjective Character Indications 36
The World of the Production 36
Costumed Groups and Movement 38
Costume Design and Fashion Design 41
Costume Design and Collaboration 41
Chapter 2
The Costume Approach 43
First Impressions 44
Determining the Basic Interpretation 46
Coordinating Sets and Costumes 47
Estabbshing Needs 50
The Costume Lists 50
Time Considerations and Changes 54
The Flexible, Confident Designer 54
Assessing tbe Work 56
Budgeting 59
Yardage Estimates 60
Fabric Conversion Chart 62
Costume Stock 62
The Design Interpretation and the Actor 64
The Rehearsal Costume 65
Reducing Actor-Designer Conflicts 65
Chapter 3
Developing the Basic Concept 67
Developing the Character Costume 68
Setting the Limitations 74
Historical Period 74
Geographic Area 76
Season and Weather 76
Time of Day 77
Social Status 77
Age 78
Sex 79
Design Guideline for Costume Unity 80
Realism Versus Stylization 80
Unity through Line and Detail 80
Color and Fabric Control 83
Considering Practical Limitations 87
Restrictions Caused by the Performance Space 88
Costumes and the Body 88
The Actor's Experiencewith Costumes 89
Researching the Production 89
Chapter 4
Developing the Line 93
The Quick Sketch 94
Laying Out the Figure 97
The Hinge Points 9
The Head, Face, Neck, and Shoulders 98
Shoulder, Arm, and Hand 100
The Waist 101
The Hip, Leg, Knee, and Foot 101
Age and Body Shape 101
Finding the Best Medium for Sketchmg 103
The Importance of Line Quality 104
The Elements of Design 106
Line, Shape, and Form 107
Color, Texture, and Light 108
Controlling the Elements 109
Repetition and Harmony 109
Progression and Gradation 110
Sequence 110
Balance 112
Developing the Costume Line for the Production 114
The Silhouette and Its Relation to the Hinge Points 115
Individual Costume Characterization and Costume Detail116
Costume Focus 123
Movement and Costume 127
The Quick Change 130
Fabric, Texture, and the Basic Design 132
Chapter 5
Designing the Costume: Color Control 135
What Is Color? 136
Subtractive Color Mixing: The Pigment Color Wheel 136
Additive Color Mixing: The Light Color Wheel 137
Basic Color Vocabulary 137
Tonal Variations and the Color Sphere 139
Color Contrast 140
Color Relationships 142
Color Symbolism 143
Color Approach to a Production 144
Scripted Color Needs 144
Color Ideas from the Director 145
Color for Character Identification 145
Planning the Color 146
Setting Color Limitations 146
Color Progression 147
Color Coordination of Scenery and Costumes 147
Realism and Stylization in the Color Scheme 147
The Individual Costume Within the Color Scheme 148
Color Within the Individual Costume 149
The Effect of Colored Light on Fabric 150
Chapter 6
Costume Presentation: Rendering or Final Sketch 153
The Costume Design Presentation 154
Establishing the Figure 155
Media 156
Papers and Boards 156
Color Media 158
Brushes 161
Collage 162
The Layout of the Costume Plate162
The Costume Portfolio 164
Chapter7
Designing for Film and Television 165
The Scene and Costume Breakdown 168
Continuity 174
Paperwork and Hours 176
Equipment and Budgets 177
Television 178
Flexibility and Stamina 179
Chapter 8
Costume Construction 181
The Modern Dress Show 182
Developing and Approach to Building 182
Translating the Sketch to the Costume 186
Fabric Selection 188
Natural Fibers 189
Less Common Cellulose Fibers 191
Man-made Cellulose Fibers 191
Synthetic Fibers 192
Weaves 193
Checking the Hand of the Fabric 196
Dyeing the Fabric 197
Types of Dye 197
Dyeing Techniques and Problems 198
Fabric Painting 199
Aging the Costume 202
Chapter 9
Patterning and Building the Costume 203
Pattern Sources 205
Measurements 207
The Three-Piece Bodice 211
Creatmg the Proper Body Shape 212
Padding 212
Corseting 214
Petticoats 216
Period Bodices 216
Period Skirts 218
The Princess-Line Gown 225
Trousers 225
Sleeves 229
Men's Coats and Tailoring 238
Mocking Up the Patterns 246
Fitting the Actor 247
Creating a Good Atmosphere 248
Adjusting the Pattern to the Body 249
Finishing the Pattern 250
Constructing the Costume 252
The Costume Shop 253
Basic Sewing Equipment 253
Larger Equipment 254
General Equipment 258
Laying Out the Costume Shop 260
Appendix A
A Guide to the History of Clothing 263
The Four Basic Types of Costumes 263
The Draped Costume 263
The Semifitted Costume 265
The Fitted Costume 265
The Artificial Silhouette 265
Greek Costumes 265
Roman Costumes 267
Early Christian, Byzantine, and Romanesque Costumes 269
Thirteenth-Century Costumes 273
Fourteenth-Century Costumes 275
Fourteenth- and Early-Fifteenth-Century Costumes 278
Mid- to Late-Fifteenth-Century Costumes 281
Fifteenth- to Sixteenth-Century Costu nes 284
Early Sixteenth Century—Tudor Costumes 287
Mid-Sixteenth to Early Seventeenth Century—Elizabethan Costumes 290 .
Early Seventeenth Century—Cavalier Costumes 293
Mid-Seventeenth Century—Pefficoat Breeches 296
Late Seventeenth to Early Eighteenth Century—Restoration Costumes 299
The First Half of the Eighteenth Century-Rococo Costumes 302
The Mid-Eighteenth Century-Georgian Costumes 306
Costumes at the End of the Eighteenth Century 309
Nineteenth-Century Costumes 312
Appendix B
Source Lists 321
Chronological List of Source Materials 321
Greek 321
Roman 322
Early Christian 322
Byzantine 322
Romanesque 322
Thirteenth Century 322
Fourteenth Century 323
Fifteenth Century 323
Sixteenth Century 325
Seventeenth Century 326
Eighteenth Century 327
Nineteenth Century—Victorian Era 330
Useful Costume Source Books 331
General Costume Surveys 331
General Survey Specialty Books 333
Ancient Greece to the Twelfth Century 336
Twelfth Through Fifteenth Centuries: Gothic 337
Sixteenth Century 338
Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries 338
Nineteenth Century 339
Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Periodicals 340
Twentieth Century 340
Bibliography 343
Index 347
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